Raft sticking to fep. I’m using Anycubic Grey resin.

Raft sticking to fep THANKS for your reply. When I try printing a large size figure, to put the printer to the test, my resin hardens onto the fep and the print fails. Rather use brims. You can adjust your settings and calibrate once you get stuff to stick. Put the model 1mm under the build plate plane larger pieces will stick to the FEP after a few layers are printed (the raft and beginning of the supports are clearly visible), noting is left on the build plate. It prints the first few layers of the raft, which get stuck to the FEP filter and not to the built plate. I have the Saturn 2 as well. Hello, friends I recently bought a mono x and printed my test print (grid cube) which came out perfect. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong since about a week ago I printed a supported d6 mini flawlessly, and have been trying to print minis and dice all the same. Some suggest PTFE but I read a post that said its opaque in UV and won't print with it The raft sticks to the base, but the supports don't stick to the raft. The goal is to prevent any spillage. Presupported files still need a little more but way less than before and less contact with the model. I had no issue all summer (it's my first winter in this new location), so I'm guessing this has to do with colder temperatures in the attic I print in (about 15 degrees Celsius). Also you obviously didn't do anything yourself for solving your problem, expecting that other people's glass ball says something that might be helpful. I don't know what I'm doing wrong. Shouldn't have done that. The problem isn’t the raft or how dense the supports are. Be sure your hands are clean, so you don’t get any dirt or debris on your FEP. I have been trying to get one model in particular, Amber Tepes from Loot Studios, to print Successful prints were near 100%. 01mm you’d likely see a partial failure or a z-shift / delamination rather than a full failure with the model fully stuck to the FEP. 3 succeeded and the other 4 failed, I don't have a picture of those but they were stuck to the FEP Do you print directly on the bed or do you elevate your objects and build on raft and supports? Try to elevate your object by 5mm and build on a 0. I changed my FEP, used a lubricate on the FEP, releveled the build plate multiple times. The Supports and rafts print out just fine which is odd. This blocks much of the light from the LCD and can cause the print to fail to cure properly. Replaced FEP, no change. Raft and supports seem OK. Please help Bought a Saturn 3 Ultra brand new. The only issue now I am having is that my supports are not printing on to the raft. Any gap means reduced detail level. Locked post. Replace the film periodically. I opened the printer yesterday and did a bed level. New comments cannot be posted. A 3D printer’s build plate needs to be even and leveled at all times. And always ensure the FEP remains in pristine condition post-cleanup. I calibrated with the Matrix and the Cones of Calibration who both were perfectly fine. If part of the model is printed However, whenever I try to print in ABS, the first layer doesn't properly stick to the raft either creating a very rough first layer or not printing further. Using Siraya fast grey. The only different setting I have on Lychee is Anti Stickiness to the FEP > build plate. This happened without changing any settings in between. Reply reply More replies More replies. It seems fine now but if you experience issues where the raft doesn't stick to the build plate, take some 60-80 grit The first is that my print was too heavy and would end up falling off the plate then stick to the FEP, that doesn't appear to be an issue in this case, as it usually partly printed before sticking. I’m finding failure in most. Sticks to FEP. For your rafts, you My rafts and supports stick to the plate then the actual print itself sticks to the FEP. Sadly, the raft got almost merged with the FEP film. between that and trying to prevent fep suction on the lcd screen with tape, i have seen vast improvement. You're getting layer delamination because your rafts are too thick, and your lift height during your burn in layers isn't enough. Separation from FEP film of How to Fix Resin Print Sticking to FEP & Not Build Plate. Adjust the exposure time: Increase the bottom exposure time to make the first layers stick firmly to the build plate. If that doesent work, maybe orientate the model so less surface area is Every print I’ve done on lychee prints the raft, maybe one or two supports and that’s it. The raft sticks well on the resin sticking to FEP not plate I reset back to Chitubox default settings for the Saturn, leveled the plate, added a raft, and I am still having trouble with print fails. If you stop hearing it and you have a raft support. if it really won’t stick to the build plate, I imagine you can sand it to improve the grip? checked the FEP film and screws, it’s tight and not loose. The parts do not stick to the build plate, even with extremely high burn in time. Choose the Right Adhesive Material. Went back to the bottle recommendation. They leave a giant patch stuck to the fep and nothing on the build plate. You can also experiment with using stronger contact points with I have releveled the build plate, added a heater to my enclosure with a thermostat to keep the temp a balmy 71F, still nothing but the raft stuck to the FEP. I have releveled "0" about 10 times, room is warm and heated. Clean build plate Tighten/loosen fep to around 300hz Clean out resin vat and use fresh resin (thoroughly shaken prior) Sand build plate with 240 grit for extra adhesion. The filament just swirls around the nozzle and it won’t stick to the platform at all. Sometimes, models stick excellently to the build plate and the print succeeds, So, I tried replacing the resin with new one, no luck, still sticking to the FEP. You can IPA and air dry the build plate though. Exposure time too short (Resin will first solidify on the Resin sticking to fep . 1. Here's a list of what I've already tried: If anyone could help me it'd be greatly appreciated. Here are the steps to prevent a 3D model from sticking firmly to the raft: Slightly increase the raft’s air gap or separation distance in your slicer settings. Test out the exposure times and support amount/ quality of supports to make sure they are up to the task. I’ve levelled the build plate, but have had three failed prints, and have re-levelled the plate each time. This gives you a handle to peel the resin up. Thanks, it doesn't show very well in the picture, but there is a raft on the print and its this that sticks to the FEP instead of sticking to the build Everything is sticking to the FEP sheet. #3DPrinting #FEP #DIYToday at Badgerworks, we look at a fairly common problem in resin 3D printing - prints sticking to the bottom of the tank instead of to New Saturn 3 and prints are sticking to the FEP instead of the bed. I checked my FEP, relevelled the build plate and increased the curing time for the first layers of the build I tried adding a 115% raft and while the raft remained stuck to the build plate the print actually pulled free of the raft. The M5s has a Frosted ACF. Bed levelled with A4 method. Tried 150 seconds on 5 layers. For example, you might have to lower the heat of the bed. Below are some of the best suggestions that can help you out in Build on the plate seem to get about as far as the raft, then stick to the FEP from there, so i have about two equal size puddles on the build plate and FEP. I’ve tried masking tape, a glue stick. This guide will walk you through that process. The supports could be sticking to the FEP sheet and being ripped off by the retraction speed being too high. Considering removing the screen protector when I install the new nFEP. Just a thin sheet of cured resin like befire, and when I clean out the vat, I assume there will be another slim sheet stuck on the fep that I will clean off for the millionth time. Raft base, but very dense, think of it as a very big skate with raised edges. not an If you are experiencing the "Model not sticking to the build plate" problem, please follow the steps below: 1. Alcohol, and other solvents will kill the viscosity of FEP films and cause them to become "sticky". Supports and Raft are building perfectly but part is sticking to FEP. What causes discoloration in resin prints? After some successful prints, multiple attempts to print a mini base have failed with the first few layers sticking to the FEP film instead of the build plate. The "too tight" is a new issue to me. Keep on reading through this article for more details on how to fix this issue Use the default exposure as well. Many modern 3D FDM printers have I'm using a Phrozen Sonic 4k, and ever since I replaced the FEP prints won't stop sticking to it. Avoid overheating the printer. Clean your vat up, then drop a single drop of the 3-in-1 on the FEP, and rub it around so you have an ultra thin film. I make sure to use a raft (2 mm) with a chamfered edge. Clean any resin residue and sand any scratches on the plate. Raft thickness - 0. The prints aren't sticking in the exact same place, but generally in the same area of about 2 square inches. Lastly, and my favorite method, is to go to your local hardware store and getting “3-in-1 Multipurpose PTFE” lubricant. Troubleshooting Just got my MARS and got 3 good prints out before things started sticking to the FEP. Open your tuning app (guitar tuner aps work fine) and gently pluck the FEP film with your fingernail. The only time something didn't was when I set the bottom/burn-in 6 layers to having a 120sec burn in time, I didn't continue that one because I fucked up my order of operations in setting up the printer Prints sticking to FEP I'm using elegoo basic grey. 2. A few Particulars; Printing with an Elegoo Mars, with grey resin. The one on the left has an added raft. I switched to Fast Creamy at the same mix ratio and now have been at a 100% failure rate. But honestly, you probably weren’t leveling the build plate correctly. adding a raft cleaning base plate before every print cleaning the vat and lcd before prints Pics of Edit: using a portable fan heater to keep the printer at a constant 20-25 degrees C has fixed my problem. I'm using the original resin it came with (is the age of the resin an issue?). I have the same printer and use the same resin. I'm now thinking the FEP is too tight. its printing the raft and supports perfectly to the plate but then starts printing the rest of it to the fep itself. Layer height: That does not look like the FEP Film the M5s normally has. That looks like a normal FEP. 5-1. Level the build platform Did you loosen the Key TakeawaysLevel the build plate: Make sure the plate is even, flat, and parallel to the FEP film. It is mainly caused by poor bed adhesion. Often, the easiest fix is to adjust the bottom layer settings like exposure time and layer height. The raft stuck to the plate, but the print still failed. what could this be? I’m having an issue with the raft for my supports sticking to the build plate too much after printing. Nothing on build plate. I haven't changed my FEP or sanded my plate down yet, well, just sanded the plate down, so not 3d RESIN PRINT FAILURES and SOLUTIONS not sticking to build plate, sticking to fep, exposure settings. You would need to deviate greatly from the stock profiles to get it to print nicely as there is a great difference between normal FEP and ACF. I changed my FEP, used a lubricate on the FEP, releveled The issue of resin 3D prints not sticking to the build plate but getting stuck to the FEP film can be resolved. Let it dry from the cleaning. You just need to ensure that the surface on the build plate is always going to be larger than the surface on the FEP so the build plate wins the tug of war. Keep an eye and ear for that flump sound during the first 20 layers. I know this is a pretty common topic and there's a ton of fixes out there online but I was gonna ask the community some of their opinions. Squirt a healthy amount of the PTFE onto the FEP and wipe it all around, into the edges and corners. manufacturer The raft ends up sticking very strongly to the FEP sheet (almost impossible to take off), and always has the same shape (very thin wispy edges, see picture). I learned this method with my original Mars printer and I've had the Mars 2 for a couple months now. Not the supports, the whole thing sticks to the fep sheet. I can't even get the raft to stick to the build plate, let alone the print or supports. In this video Facility D20 works through problems and •Check the condition of your FEP film. I’m using Anycubic Grey resin. I've tried Increase success rate with resin 3D printing! 3D printing raft is one of the most important techniques that will improve your 3D printing. I am using standard resin Sunlu brand. The issue is that it is on a very thick raft. Prints now fail 100% of the time, where before they were completing properly 100% of the time. Reply reply The whole point of bottom exposure is to get it to stick to the plate, not FEP. the rook print (both stock USB and self sliced) and tried something else, but got the same result. Here are some images with the result and I’d recommend using a raft to have a good foundation, and using enough drain holes. To resolve this, replace the FEP Im at a bit of a loss as to what to do next, there are no clear issues with the LCD, or the resin itself, im using the 8k resin that came with the printer and stock settings, my first print was flawless and since then nothing has seemingly been able to The raft prints perfectly fine, then the printer makes 4 or 5 passes on raft like a border to the model before printing back and forth to make the bottom. Hypothetically. The piece that sticks is about the size of the cross section of a match, and nothing around it sticks abnormally. Reply reply PLA won't stick to the build plate after adding CR Touch leveling to my Ender 3 My parts continue to stick to the raft after printing. The pre-designed supports are very fine but I've successfully printed other figures from the same set before replacing my FEP. Sometimes I cannot even separate it with a razor blade. changing the platform Elegoo mars Prints sticking to FEP Question So I bought a new Resin tank and new resin for my printer. Please see pics. No strings or anything. So recently I'll have some of my prints just straight up stick to the build plate when it's printing the raft. If it's full of micro scratches, you might experience sticking to it instead of the build plate. To keep things this way, we finance it through advertising, ad-free subscriptions, and shopping links. Sometimes like 1 out of 4 pieces I'm doing will print all the way. Dirty FEP Film Dirty, scratched, or cloud FEP film can all cause a print to stick. Quickest thing to try - add a Raft/Skate to it, that gives it more surface area on the base to print, and adhere better. No change. SLR, I think my issue is with the FEP film. However, then I went and printed the test file and it also got stuck. Why are my resin prints sticking to the FEP? The FEP needs proper tensioning and lubrication. This helps the resin from sticking as well, but still allowing for quality definition. Generate a raft on the bottom. You have done nothing to solve your problem. When I clean my vat, nothing is stuck to the FEP and it seems like things just can’t stick to the raft. I’ve tried the 3-in-One oil as suggested and have replaced my FEP twice on a two week A raft increases the strength of support and helps in holding the model firmly by enhancing the adhesion and making prints stick to the build plate. Thank you to everyone who gave advice! Hi. increased bottom layer count to 5, changed the rising height tp 6mm and 8mm. By the third or fourth print, I get sticking to the fep (usually on the support layer). No it isn't, this is indeed a definitely guaranteed method to clean the FEP; everything stuck to the FEP will still be in the place where it got cured, Continue to the end of the print, which was about 7 models speed across the build plate. Everything I print gets stuck to my FEP film. The failed pieces are flat thin pieces the exact shape of the raft welded to the fep, so it has absolutely nothing to do with suction. I was having same problems until I did that Reply reply Most of my prints are suddenly sticking to FEP sheet, trying to figure out actual cause . I've tried playing around with different nozzle and bed temperature settings as well as first layer height. Each time the things sticking to the FEP can be caused by too few supports (but if you’re doing a benchy that’s probably not it- you could make a raft for it but that’s overkill. Individual support skates love to leave gaps, create suction cups, and just have a lower surface area. The raft falls off almost immediately, usually before the supports even start to print. . It also looks like you aren't using a raft: Always use a raft. Adjust the lift speed, height and force. Set the best suitable settings for the printing process according to the resin type and model, and you will be able to fix this problem. I leveled and tried again with the same result. How much that is helping I don't know, I still get to Every print I’ve done on lychee prints the raft, maybe one or two supports and that’s it. ) Hope something in there helps. You can increase If you are experiencing the "Model not sticking to the build plate" problem, please follow the steps below: 1. I've troubleshot this thing hundreds of times now it seems, so most of the basic stuff I can figure out. (Because it’s not) and even if your layer height is . It's more a case of your prints not sticking to the This in turn causes more prints to stick to the FEP like cleats in mud. Check our official resin setting suggestions: CLICK HERE 2. You shouldn’t need to add anything to so ive been trying to start printing again, ive had to replace the fep film and generally just clean up my printer been printing and the prints are like, printing a little bit of the way, but at some point it stops being on the plate. Measure the frequency of your FEP with the guitar tuning Hi all, I have a model I purchased, it comes with a pre-supported version. 8s, but even they have misprints like Lowering the Z-lift speed is also a good step to take when you’re getting prints sticking to the FEP. Currently attempting to print test model using default settings. FEP/PFA film condition - transfer out the resin, clean, and snap a photo Hrmm, I can’t imagine that sand paper is more precise than a laser. Increased initial exposure time to 45s, 50s, 60s, still not work. A loose FEP film may lead to failed prints, and the prints may stick to the FEP film, not the buildplate. I'd say it would be an issue of supports except for the fact that I have attempted to print the same thing I'd successfully printed earlier today, and earlier with different resins, with After I changed out the resin and cleaned the FEP, I now get prints stuck to the FEP. 3- print the model on a 45 degree angle, this greatly reduces the surface in contact with the FEP and any one time. Specifically, the raft keeps sticking to the FEP. You didn't add any pictures, you didn't reply to a lot of people trying to help you. make sure the printer is in a warm enough room especially at the start of the print. I just got an ender 3 v2 neo with auto leveling and a removable magnetic steel build plate. It makes it so that the FEP isn’t in contact with the lcd screen and as such it relieves possible adhesion from the FEP to the lcd, thus making it easier for the FEP to bulge up when the print bed raises, preventing such big suction forces The raft layers are either not sticking or getting ripped of during printing, I'm not sure. But here, the raft is clearly sticking to the That’s because sticking issues can occur because of heat, exposure, an unlevel bed, instability in the FEP, or several other issues. It can be indicative of a number of things: Resin insufficiently stirred or sat in the VAT too long. Once all clear, gently persuade your print to detach from the FEP. I'm using an LD002H and good thing the printer came with a spare FEP. So I'll try replacing and tuning a new FEP to the proper Hz using an audio app. I dunno if it's possible to tune on my printer but just to be sure, I'll have to spray my new FEP with WD40. I got a brand new Saturn 3 (not ultra) a couple months ago and I've only been able to test it as of recent. Went back to the default. I've also seen youtubers use some kind of ptfe lubricant on the inside of the vat/fep to make sure the print doesn't stick to the fep instead of the build plate. 0mm thick raft (in chitubox you could set sth like 120% size). If it doesn’t stick with 20 seconds or less on a mono screen printer then you have a serious problem other than exposure. Put a shit ton of supports. I'm out of FEP and patience! i spray a little wd40 on the fep and wipe most off before a print. This is a 2 stage issue. So I looked into it, I re-leveled it, cleaned it and applied PTFE lube, tried different But now my prints failing early and sticking to the FEP film in the vat. Steps taken: I have the flash forge adventurer 3. May have completely removed when I wiped off what I perceived as excess. My rafts and supports stick to the plate then the actual print itself sticks to the FEP. The first thing I would look towards when your 3D prints are sticking to the bed a little too well is It was printing fine a week ago, but then I got a print where everything but one raft was gone, and everthing after that was just failed prints. FEP lubricated with aforementioned PTFE, no wipedown prior to printing. Printer settings are in the first pic. Sticks to the FEP. Resin is Elegoo Water Washable Ceramic Grey the raft is coming away from the build plate but nothing actually printed on the raft and instead just stuck to the FEP. I did two of the R_E_R_F prints using the file that came with the printer. You need to angle the print more to reduce how much is on the fep at any given layer Reply reply I've had good luck applying some PTFE lubricant to my FEP to help combat Sticking to the FEP Total noob here and while I have had some successful prints. Need a Fixing your Elegoo Mars prints sticking to the FEP can mean troubleshooting. This can occur if you clean your vat too often using IPA and a microfiber cloth. Attempted to lubricate FEP using B'laster dry lubricant with teflon. I went to print it yesterday and the mini ended up stuck to the FEP. Facilitate better curing of the This quick guide will help you keep resin prints on the build plate and off the FEP. So the FEP should lose the tug of war every time, especially here. At first I thought it was possibly because I didn't know what I was doing, and I just printed some Random 3d model as my first print. I've tried to decrease lift speed, increase cure time, increase support contact point, but nothing has worked. I have tried printing 4 calibration cubes on on the left middle middle and right. Anything short of that can create printing problems, includi The Raft Does Not Adhere to the Bed. Have All the prints ends up stuck to the FEP layer (which got a couple of rinkcles after the first failed print). Pause and check. Here, the largest issue is when the FEP becomes cloudy. You might also have to level the bed, increase the bottom layers, or adjust your resin settings in some How To Fix the Model Sticking to the Raft. This resolved 70+% of my failures. Print with a raft, medium supports, and orient your print at 45 degrees. Share Sort by: By base, do you mean the figure and base were stuck to the FEP but the raft and supports were on the plate? Or literally everything was on the FEP? Because if it's too cold (working range for most resins is suggested 20-25 C) then it can have trouble sticking, and you would need to either jack up the bottom exposure, or warm up the area. So, if you ever have that problem, start there. Resin sticking to FEP help. Saturn 3 Ultra seem to manage at 2. I've paused after the raft and a few layers had printed and can see that it fails pretty early on. I can't return it at this point and am at my wits end. I’ve printed multiple benchies right on the build plate). This is meant to help preventing the resin from sticking to the FEP. The FEP where it has stuck to doesn't show any damage until I remove the part. I am using the chisel/scraper that came with the printer. It just sounds a little louder because the resin is cured longer. upvote Use a raft or a brim on your 3D prints. I'm starting to think my printer is defective. Check our official resin setting suggestions: CLICK HERE. Reply reply The problem isn’t the raft or how dense the supports are. That 80 second exposure on your base layer is going to burn up your screen. Reply reply Happiikhat • Have you run an exposure test with the LCD screen then? The prints are supposed to also stick to the FEP but also detach between layers. It used This article is free for you and free from outside influence. Any suggestions to This article introduces the most common reasons for failed printing. 4 mm Support tip diameter - 0. Whatever you have bp stucking issues (especially sticking to fep) it is : not sanded build plate, not using rec. ive tried to print on 3 different occasions the last few days and each time. I love it, but it won’t print a damn thing anymore. Attached is a picture of the items stuck on the fep sheet after I cured them. I replaced the take and tried changing orientation of I've noticed that the FEP is very cloudy, and this FEP has only been cleaned with IPA about 8 times, so I'm wondering if the FEP has a problem so I've ordered nFEP but I'm still waiting on it to come in. This is already actually the main limiter on the detail we can achieve ( the current gap coming from the LCD top half, Ideally use a solid raft that has a bigger footprint than the model. the second cause was that I did have my plate Prints sticking to fep. The giant toad worked out alright, but stilt-walker is a disaster. So my question is if I drop the raft into the build plate in Chitubox will this make the raft thinner or will it just make a mess? Getting a lot of failed prints, most turning out like the attached photo - Raft and some of the first few layers stick to the build plate fine but everything else sticks to FEP. 4. Just from my own experience, if you are still using normal fep and this issue of sticking to the fep persists, swap to nfep. I'm using a Saturn 2 8k with the elegoo water washable resin and the Empty and thoroughly clean the resin tank and FEP film. Makes me think the bottom exposure is too high, and the raft is over exposed. It just isn’t sticking together and keeps falling apart. I got rid of them with a raft for the most part, but it’s still on my raft. things ive Prints Sticking To FEP, Only First Few Layers are Printing . I'm using two strips of masking tape on the short edges of the LCD as suggested to void suction on LCD itself. I have done an exposure test and the screen is fine. When it’s even, it’s uniformly flat, and when it’s leveled it’s completely parallel to the FEP film (and it should also be free from resin residue, dents, and scratches). I suggest getting yourself a original Anycubic ACF and changing it out. 🎄 Order your 3D Printing Holiday Gift Box! Includes Free STL Files, Premium Resins & Free It helps exactly because it’s below the FEP. This reduces the total surface area in contact with the FEP, which helps prevent sticking, and also uses less resin. If your prints are detaching from the supports, that is a different issue and we have an article on how to stop resin prints detaching from Print sticking to FEP I recently got an Anycubic Photon second hand but never used. For If the temperature is lower than recommended. Exposure time - Currently set to 3s on Saturn 2 and 3 after calibration tests. You need to angle the print more to reduce how much is on the fep at any given layer Reply reply I've had good luck applying some PTFE lubricant to my FEP to help combat sticking. I'm currently using an Elegoo Mars. Sort of like having a camera in focus, then moving further away, it goes blurry. Set the lifting speed and distance: Find a lifting speed that peels Fill the vat with a thin layer of resin and stick an old support in the corner to help you pull the sheet of exposed resin off later. The only different setting I have on Lychee is Anti Changed the exposure to 70 seconds on the first 10 layers. It's harder, and stuck to both the fep and build plate quite a bit and that FEP is pulling off the print as it should. You can adjust the raft Haha, well, yeah, I guess I'm in your boat. This makes removing the print from the plate rather difficult and risks me damaging the plate, print, and my thumb occasionally. Sticking to FEP will be very high due to the large cross-sectional area. I've tried leveling to Another good option is to stick a support / raft from a previous print overlapping the corner of the screen and then run the clean. And your print is sticking to the fep. 5 attempts to print a file i've successfully printed before, 5 consecutive failures, always at exactly the same point, around layer 20, just as it's finishing the raft. Hey Guys and Girls, After changing my Fep and releveling my buildplate, my supports no longer seems to stick to the Raft. That’s not really a failure on your part - learning how to level properly And if your base layers tend to stick without a problem, then the raft should hypothetically stick fine to the plate, and everything will stick fine to that. At the end of a print, the items are stuck to the fep sheet and the build plate is empty. Good luck! which can cause it to be rough enough of a surface The model of cones is a bit wrongly shaped at the bottom, at one point the area holding to build plate is smaller than the area sticking to FEP and the sticking battle is lost for the build plate. Next I tried your advice (cliffyk) to use a scotch brite pad, and I also re-leveled the plate one more time (but this time I really loosened up the screws a lot, very Every print I’ve done on lychee prints the raft, maybe one or two supports and that’s it. Prints continue to fail in the exact same way. Prints sticking to the fep i paused the print after a few layers and it seemed to stick to the build plate fine. Used HaloBox to This did help with the raft sticking to the plate, however this too stopped happening after a few prints. Most SLA slicers have tools to do this, including ChiTuBox. r/silhouettecutters Hi, as the title says I'm having issues with my prints sticking to the FEP. Print Settings: Printer: Anycubic Photon (Fauxton with newest Firmware) Resin: Monocure 3D Rapid Today I applied WD-40 PTFE to the vat (not directly, first on a paper towel) and printed the matrix validation and I though that went correct so I tried to print another file but this time with a raft. Clean fep and If it's the raft that's not sticking rather than the supports try these. Level If your resin print is sticking to the FEP instead of the build plate or sticking too well to the FEP, it’s likely an issue with settings. Certainnn prints keep sticking to FEP sheet I am having trouble getting prints to stick to the bed. Put something like a support structure with raft you have removed from a print flush onto the fep. The only different setting I have on Lychee is Anti Aliasing (for some reason I can’t turn it on on Chitubox so I’m assuming it’s a pro 0 gap. Nevermind, print failed. Tilting the model back 30 degrees didn't really lessen the cross section much, if at all, and just required me to put a crap ton of supports to compensate for fact that the model now was not sitting flat on the plate Increase bottom layer exposure, use enough supports, maintain temperature, level build plate properly, optimize orientation, and try a raft. 6 mm Used lubricant on the Supports not sticking to raft [ Help ] So been playing with my mars 3 3d printer for a awhile and have made great strides in trying to get where I can make some really cool models. Top 2% Rank by size . I'm using the recommended settings with a higher bottom exposure time (90-100s). I was thinking something similar. If Make use of a raft to ensure more stability; The solution could also be to do with the orientation of your model, where the weight or density is concentrated on one side or (Seriously, just put down a mango raft that takes up a chunk of the build plate and see if it works then downsize and see how small you can get. One of the middle ones is printed on a 45 in all axises. Rafts are a foundation or base created Remove any excess, then focus on the resin vat. Bottom layer lifting and retraction speed either very slow (40mm/min) or Possibly too much stress on the plate/ fep resulting in it pulling the model off the plate. Make sure that all the 3D printer’s components are perfectly skewed and balanced. This is the model I am attempting to print. On the first R_E_R_F print, the entire front row did not adhere to the bed but the back row did, so I cleaned the vat/FEP and re-leveled. Problems sticking to fep. makes abolutely no sense to me. While removing the test file rook from my FEP film i kinda banged it up a bit so I replaced the I've adjusted my settings, oiled the fep, tried different rafts, etc. if it I'm not having the same issue with pre-supported models I've bought (I'm happily printing tiles, 28mm, 6mm, 72mm busts etc), so I don't think it's my printer settings that are wrong, it seems to be the way Photon Workshop does the raft. How To Fix Anycubic Photon Print Sticking to FEP Vat. I'm at my wits end. The FEP on it does stick. Unfortunately, the result remains the same. Try this before messing with things like taping the LCD, RainX, etc. The bottom of the supports all printed in a thin sheet (I didn't use a raft this time) and nothing else. More posts you may like r/silhouettecutters. but after a couple hours i came to check and all of the base layers were now stuck to the fep. I've In the center the fep is stuck to the build plate printing essentially 1 layer. I can remove them but they do not come off easy and the raft is essentially part of the part. Most fep sticking issues is because there aren't enough supports and the print will rip right off the Since then however, every single print is sticking to the FEP. These are pre-supported models by Loot Studios. Most of what I was seeing about prints sticking to the FEP had to do with not sticking to the buildplate. Lifting speed is Peeling off large layers of your raft is not an easy task for your 3D printer. Set it Sure enough, after stopping the print, I found a solid layer of resin attached to the FEP. For example, cured resin layer sticking on the FEP film instead of the build plate, model falling off during printing, only As you can see, pat of the supports will stick but at some poijt eveything fails and I'm left with a spot on the bottom of my tank. cvyhp tqxr ottr vfkvf lsoq yknphyr ntu mkio rhjjho vmywdxt